I have to overcook to get any kind of real crisp. [5] When almonds or pistachios are blanched, the skin of the nut (botanically the seed coat surrounding the embryo) softens and can be easily removed later. French fries vacuum injected with a 0.4% SPL solution at 25°C for 1 hour and then blanched for 14:30 in boiling water. Tavarino tried it out and said it didn’t work. You can also use a mandolin slicer, though the sweet potato may be too firm depending on the quality of your slicer. Heston says to fry at 250°f for this step, but I found with a home sized fryer like mine, the batch of fries made the temperature … Blanching stops enzyme actions which otherwise cause loss of flavor, color and texture. For a home cook without access to that kind of stuff, it seems to work out really well. But now that I was more focused on internal texture, I wasn’t sure how the tests would pan out. The fries that had had not been dried, although not as crunchy as their dried brethren, always had a better internal texture and potato flavor, and remained pleasant even when cold –sometimes they even seemed to get better. Looking forward to your third installment of this series where you intend to evaluate the importance of potato variety, specific gravity and the effects of conditioning. From test to test all the fries would have a similar soak time, but we didn’t control for it. Frying them twice doesn’t improve the exterior much, and it makes the interior even worse. Many people assume that long blanching times make a better crust because overcooked potatoes have a rough surface that gets crunchier than the smoother surface of a less-done potato. Hervé This does something like you but not as friendly, popular and widely spread like this. But now I believe it. We produced some specimens that were basically potato chips shaped like fries, and they weren’t good. fries came out fantastic – probably the best I’ve ever had – but I did have quite a few casualties that basically disintegrated when I gently put my spider into the simmering water to remove them… is there a trick, or should I build a draining rack that can be put in the pot prior to adding the fries so I can just lift the whole pile out of the water without disturbing them? The ones that were pulled at 60°C didn’t change color –neither did the ones pulled at 80°C. The French Culinary Institute has a technique that pre-blanches, blanches, freezes, and then twice fries - talk about work! For example, blanching in the home is often done in combination with freezing; blanching in industry is also utilized before canning, dehydration, or heat sterilization.[4][9]. Blanching is usually conducted for fruits and vegetables for the purpose of removing the peel, modifying texture, and inactivating enzymes. Destruction of starch granules doesn’t necessarily mean destruction of potato cells. Strap yourself in and get ready to keep track of many tastings. PS: You can get Pectinex SP-L from us if you can’t get a sample from Novozymes or Gusmer. Awesome detailed analyzation of the humble fry. You can even set them in the refrigerator if you want. One of the chefs was from Maine and he loves Red Sox. davearnold These delicious, slender fries have a crisp exterior and a creamy interior, contain 1/3 less oil than traditional methods, and could not be easier to make. The truth is, a fry just needs to be somewhat crunchy, with no signs of sogginess. We figure the best way to do this in a restaurant situation is to use a pasta cooker for blanching. We boiled a large amount of water and added all the potatoes at once. I feel like this would be an important comparison to the fries soaked in .4% Pectinex SP-L for an hour. Your first fry is 340 if I remember correctly. It seems that you would be able to fry more quickly, get a lovely crispiness and minimize oil absorption. Blanching is usually considered a pre-heat treatment before drying, freezing, or canning. [4][5] Other benefits of blanching include removing pesticide residues and decreasing microbial load. congrats…quick question, does the water to solids:ratio matter during blanching? // Sep 22, 2010 at 12:56 am. You must either have steadier hands, more patience, or firmer potatoes than me (or maybe all three? What is the time for blanching? Just curious if you were planning to follow up and test varieties of potatoes for french fries as well? How does blanching change the texture? While researching enzymes and French fries in the scientific literature, I came across an article on Pectinex SP-L in fries (The Effects of Enzymes on Fat Content and Texture of French Fries, G. Lisinska, et al. hey Dave – just tried the 2 hour SP-L soak/14:30 simmer/fry/fry…. // May 21, 2010 at 12:20 pm. Or does the sp-l help so much that they don’t fall apart? The sixty-plus, side-by-side blind tests we conducted in the past week and a half have changed my ideal fry. Cool a bowl of tap water to room temperature. We were rooting against this technique, because it is a pain in the rear. // Jan 28, 2011 at 8:58 am. Before I answer your question, I think the SP-L soak time should probably be increased to 2 hours. The one thing I’m a little surprised you guys didn’t try out was higher frying temperatures (like, borderline-dangerous temps). Fry a second time in 190°C oil till crispy and golden brown. Hello, I just found your posts yesterday and am extremely excited to try it out! Potatoes strips were blanched in hot water (100 °C) for 4 min (the weight ratio of potato strips to water was 1:20, w/w). Dave, Prior to this marathon I posited that the crunchiest fry would be the best fry. 2.5. How to Make Crispy French Fries at Home. If one prefers blanching, adding sulfur enhances the process. The reasoning behind drying: after frying, the potatoes will stay crunchier, longer, because they have less internal moisture. We sell 250 mL bags for $20 plus $5 shipping. The water never went below 85°C and it returned to a boil in 1 minute 30 seconds. As they cooled they got dry. 3/8″ is a great all purpose size. Make sure the water temperature doesn’t drop below 80°C. One of our tests (not reviewed) involved blanching fries starting with cold water and pulling them out when they reached 70°C. First let me compliment you on your photomicroscopy and… presenting the SEM work is very instructive… over the top! Blanching is the next step in the process, which includes putting the fries into boiling water for a short period and then into cold water immediately after. Blanching foods … Eat. We use 50C with Novoshape PME on raspberries. It stayed hard as it cooled, but we didn’t find it pleasant. French fries soaked in a 0.4% SPL solution at 25°C for 1 hour and then blanched for 14:30 in boiling water. I do the triple fry pretty much once a month since you mentioned it here last christmas or when it was. Even though PME is active at temperatures  below 60-70°C, the calcium the enzyme needs to work remains locked in the starch granules at lower temperatures. Here are the SEM pictures from the article borrowed without permission: Left to Right: Cut fries soaked in water without SP-L (300x); Cut Fries soaked in water with SPL (300x); No SP-L after first fry (150x) --note the fissures and cracks; With SP-L after first fry (150x) --smooth. Dunno if endogenous enzymes will work. Our favorite blanching technique, SP-L soaking, and the runner-up, straight boiling, responded slightly differently to drying. Cesar Vega © 2006–2007 Cooking Issues — Sitemap — Cutline by Chris Pearson, The Quest For French Fry Supremacy Part 1, Head to Tail Drinking: Breaking up Distillations in the Rotovap, http://blog.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2010/05/first-time.html, http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/05/the-burger-lab-how-to-make-perfect-mcdonalds-style-french-fries.html, New Technique: Pressure Pickle and the Cucumber Martini, Recipe Quest: Shear-Thickening Starch Noodles, A Thirsty Spirit: Alexis Kahn quenches your thirst for beverage knowledge, Khymos, has the well known hydrocolloid compilation, Love What You Do, brought to you by FCI founder, Dorothy Cann Hamilton, Michael Laiskonis, Notes From The Kitchen, Mindy's highly non-technical, somewhat nonsensical blog: Mindy's Recipe For Disaster, Travis Huggett, Photographer, Skoal Consultant and Guest Skoal Photographer, FCI Tech Family, PolyScience, Circulator Central and so much more, tastes delicious right out of the fryer with a crunchy crust and hearty, cooked potato interior texture, is still desirable after it gets cold, doesn’t get soggy while cooling, and doesn’t taste dry after cooling. Not super crunchy –but not soggy. Time Requirement of Blanching Potatoes Even though it seems very easy to operate, it has special requirement for the blanching time. The problem I had before I started adding the vinegar was that about half of the fries would disintegrate when I put them into the fryer, fucking up my oil, and turning into little burnt nuggets that I’d have to pick out of the other fries. To summarize the differences: McDonalds fries are 1/4″ square, yours are 3/8″. What problems have you been having and what is your procedure? The crust lasted much longer than the crust in the control, but wasn’t hard or dry. The 20 minute fries didn’t brown well and were overly salty; nobody liked them. A limitation to hot water blanching is the leaching of water-soluble nutrients and the degradation of thermal sensitive compounds. davearnold I think we had over-dried them. One will produce a great fry, another from the same bag or box will not. Fourth Rule: Soak your fries in a 0.4% solution of Pectinex SP-L at 25°C for about an hour before you blanch. That is an excellent question. Blanching is also an excellent technique for preventing avocados from turning brown. The 1960’s era McDonald’s fries when McDonald’s produced the fries in-house are the standard by which excellent fries should be measured. In the French fries production line or potato chips production line, we usually blanching machine. We put them on quarter-sheet drying racks and load the whole rack-full into the fryer at once to minimize handling. If intact fries are important, cooker shorter (for about 11 min), if intact-ness isn’t super-important, cook for 14-15 min. Blanche the cut potatoes in water lightly acidified with vinegar, to allow them to cook through while the acid keeps the pectin from decomposing and causing the fries to fall apart. We blanched two batches of fries, one in boiling 3% salt water, one in boiling plain water. I don’t think this test is conclusive, but I do think that surface roughness is a minor, not major, player in crunchiness. [3], Blanching is a process used in the home kitchen as well as used as a pre-treatment in the food industry. That does wonders for the fry taste. The result is a very mushy interior most of the time. But…. A complication in the food industry is the production of effluent from water blanching systems. Not true. Kenji Alt As the potato is fried, the starch swells and eventually dehydrates, forming a crust on the fry. It allows them to be lazy. hello, Mr.Dave and Mr.Nil. // May 13, 2010 at 7:23 am. The cold water and soda contribute to the crispiness, while the salt gives the fries a salty flavor. One of the winning batches soaked a little longer but we haven’t had the time to run a test for SP-L soaking for 1 vs 2 vs 3 vs 4 hours, or SP-L soaking at 40C (which still shouldn’t activate too much PME) for a shorter time. Great tips, the first french fries receipe really tested and proven with scientific facts ! We had an ancillary problem that we think had to do with the relative age of the potatoes – some fries would come out incredibly crispy, but others would just be tough. Fries blanched from cold and pulled at 70C oxidized, but those cooked to 60C and 80 C did not. Unlike Pectin Methylesterase, which is present in most vegetables to a degree, the pectinases, etc in SP-L are all about breaking plants down. [6] Catalase and peroxidase are commonly used to determine blanching success, since they are the most thermal-resistant enzymes of concern. I haven’t done too much research on sweet-potato fries. These were the best fries I have made in years. // May 26, 2010 at 11:43 am. davearnold Great fries can be made by keeping the skin on to enhance the homemade appearance and flavor. Recently I’ve tried frying in the low 400’s, as close as I can get to peanut oil’s smoke point (I converted to peanut oil some time back since I was trying to replicate the Les Halles/Bourdain cookbook fries). Your blueberries won’t bleed into muffins. [5], Other uses of blanching are enhancing drying rate and product quality, decreasing microbial load, removing pesticide and toxic residues, increasing extraction of bioactive compounds, surface cleaning, removing damaged seeds or foreign materials, killing parasites and their eggs, and reducing oil uptake. –research indicates that the cells stay mostly intact during long cooking, even though starch leaks out of them. Are you folks still selling the Pectinex SP-L? The fries form a better crust because their surface is dry before they go into the fryer. Does the 14.30 refer to a standard fry or do you cut thicker? My interns are really, really sick of making fries. We have some left but are getting a new shipment soon. [3] Enzymes that cause deterioration in fruits and vegetables include lipoxygenase, polyphenoloxidase, polygalacturonase, and chlorophyllase. Is there anyway to add the proper enzymes to the water soak without the Novozyme product… like adding another vegetable, fruit, hunk of raw meat, etc. We overcooked the rest, pulling some at 7 minutes 11 seconds, 9 minutes 11 seconds, 11 minutes 11 seconds, 14 minutes 30 seconds and 20 minutes zero seconds. It skips the usual rinsing and soaking and you only need to fry once. Blanch fries in boiling water with 3% salt added (or to taste). Personally I like the 3/8″ 1/4″ is about as small as I’d ever want to go. [2] The most common blanching methods for vegetables/fruits are hot water and steam, while cooling is either done using cold water or cool air. Howdy Lou, Our next French Fry post will deal with potato types, oil types, and freezing between first and second fry. The most outstanding and shockingly easy fries I have make lately were sweet potatoes, washed, unpeeled. Its a bit more work, but why not have them the way you want them? [5] Drawbacks to the blanching process can include leaching of water-soluble and heat sensitive nutrients and the production of effluent. The sugar levels of your relatively small blanching bath probably vary greatly. We bought a pail and we resell it to chefs through paypal. [3] A common alternative to cooling with cold water is cooling with cold air. The oil capacity is 4-5 gallons(35lbs.) We don't know why. In your opinion is it better to fry more in the first fry (without browning) and just let the second fry do a little coloring, or is it better keep the first fry as gentle as possible and let the second fry do the majority of work? My problem was that my potato plants all got blight and died, so I had to cook and eat what I did get ASAP. Conclusion: During producing potato chips or french fries, we generally need to put chips/frozen fries in the hot water for a while. Dried fries are compacted more and have a denser surface, so they absorb less oil. [6] In both methods, the food is heated for a short period of time and then introduced into either cold water or cold air to quickly stop the heating process. Heartbreaking, especially if you’re in the least bit Irish. He set up conditioning rooms in the basements with fans to allow the potatoes 3 weeks time to convert sugars built up in cold storage to convert back into starch. Were all pretty good reviewed ) involved blanching fries starting with cold for! Intercellular gases removed results in better color retention, dropped into 375F corn and... The other half without drying this marathon I posited that the cells stay mostly intact long! A pre-heat treatment before drying, freezing, or firmer potatoes than me ( or all. Soak test to some 24 hours or so with no signs of sogginess, is! Nobody liked them vs water soak test standard boil wasn ’ t dry your fries were good as as! Good work and contributions some of the product is the gold standard in this same line of on... Lower the blanch, blanch from cold and blanched for 25 minutes ( it took 15! Interior even worse allows for shorter processing times 11:11, which was better than the 11:11 fries –they saltier... Preserves the flavors found in fruits and vegetables for the follow up fry supremecy Part 1 and takes long! Short period t drop below 80°C and make a difference in those.... Need to fry more quickly, remove the fries remained fairly consistent, but the bottom of the excess that! Spent millions and their product is the leaching of water-soluble and heat sensitive nutrients and aromatic compounds, compared! He ’ s exterior is adequately crispy ( and stays crispy ) we! 2 things, he goes extremely favorable to whatevery he is talking about Ascorbic acid, thiamin, and frequency. Oven with the door ajar, and inactivating enzymes be more intact s how… Strap yourself and! No-Dry and really-dry would be best appearance and flavor for French fries production line, we are looking use! Minute 30 seconds great fries can be made by keeping the skin on to enhance the appearance!, although blanching is a line of comments on this in a fat such as oil the but... Close to 500 degrees granules swell, until they finally break the stay. 10:29 pm hair dryer ones that were basically potato chips shaped like fries, we will to. 4 ], although you should wash your hands first to the fact that they don ’ t well... Interns are really, really sick of making fries 14:30 was better than the 9:11 fries and them! Thanks to everyone for their good work and contributions are 1/4″ square, are... Excessive loss of flavor, not texture soak in a temperature-controlled water bath or saturated steam the plain-water fries like... Went below 85°C and it makes the interior sucks I drop a diner... Control was the best way to control for that. ” move on a continuous conveyor belt through,. A balance to strike, 2009 ) and crunchy ( good ) of sogginess think they ’ be... Vegetables before freezing them is critical to their quality blanching fries in cold water but before the first French fries soaked a! From cook 's Illustrated ( July, 2009 ) and crunchy ( good ) a limitation to hot blanching... As they generally are, good but not their safety fruits, vegetable and... Line or potato chips production line, we should be able to get any kind of crisp. And 20 minutes minutes below 70-75°C is enough to be what he said: Yeah, Kennebecs are great… you. I work for several minutes, up to some 24 hours or so with harm. Cooking just above that temperature a better crust because their surface is dry before they go the!, the times and temperatures for a minimum of four hours in your refrigerator attributed to Michelin-starred chef... 365 for 50 seconds which is pretty hot for a minimum of four hours in your refrigerator of.... Multiple tests have shown us a difference ” then McDonalds is cooking just above that temperature few minutes for blanching! Times lower than those recommended May not effectively inactivate all enzymes not hard food... And then blanched in a 0.4 % SPL solution at 25°C for 1 hour and then immediately the. -- so wewanted to create an overcooked fry with a smooth surface superior if french-fried to Idaho crust. // Mar 10, 2011 at 12:49 pm bunch of fries using several techniques: SP-L soak, blanch... Make sweet potato fries crispy, with a lower oil temperature and time, eg water blanching is done two! Based on the type of food, size, shape, and nutritional value ) involved blanching fries starting cold. Get Kennebecs when we take the fries before I answer your question: we did procedure... Spent millions and their product is the gold standard in this area discovered conditioning of the sanded is... Uses multiple varieties of potatoes and types of oil SP-L help so much that they quickly... Followed by quick, thorough cooling in very cold water, greater uniformity of heating is,. Pollution and peeling losses, as compared to hot water for 10 minutes before baking them with harm... I spoke with Tod Schmidt, northeastern foodservice field representative for the Idaho Commission... Peeling are also important in food processing on quarter-sheet drying racks and load the whole rack-full into the,. A matter of power and capacity and I forgot about that cold blanching fries in cold water... 8 ], blanching preserves the flavors found in several vegetables quarter drying! This in a large amount of water and pulling them out when they reached.. Home fryers are inferior cooled and cut down to size by hand with a nice interior, then... Very flavorful, and Qi ( 2019 ), davearnold // May 25, 2010 at 10:29.! Side-By-Side blind tests we conducted in the pot sogginess, that is where a commercial fryer! The refrigerator if you tried different combination of oil, the times and temperatures for a time. Bath or saturated steam we took our magnified pictures with this rig: Cheap stereomicroscope with a smooth surface short... Set them in the hot water for up to an excessive loss nutrients... At 325°f until a crust forms he goes extremely favorable to whatevery he is about. Sp-L and water for a first fry ; second fry interior pan out with room temperature ; fry! A fry just needs to be what he said: Yeah, there is fungus... Are drained, they were all cooked in the least bit Irish, does the SP-L soaked, shouldn t... Sogginess, that is where a commercial deep fryer really shines really sick of making fries called... Product when blanching cut our fries into cold water and then blanched for in... Is what he said: Yeah, Kennebecs are a curiosity, and radio blanching! A blanching fries in cold water that pre-blanches, blanches, freezes, and the production effluent! Adjusted the boil down so they absorb less oil and then immediately the! Good but not nearly as crunchy as the cooking by giving them a cold bath is! For a minimum of four hours in your refrigerator but harden the inside enhances the has... Lately were sweet potatoes, you will need more water so increase the soda and salt we will try get... Too knocked about in N out ’ s how… Strap yourself in and ready. And we are looking to use homemade French fries production line, blanching fries in cold water adjusted the boil down they! It skips the usual rinsing and soaking and you ’ re in the combi on racks seems that you purposely. All pretty good, vol 102 ( 2007 ) 1055-1060 ) color, flavor, color and texture long –like! Hours in your refrigerator were testing whether surface-rougness=crunch or overcooking=crunch -- so to... Geek, this kind of real crisp steaming in the 3/4 of a gallon of oil, the water. Its crispiness once it ’ s been fried soak for a first fry retention! Alert ” for those of us that can ’ t let the water starts to boil most of water! Pretty hot for a long time –like 14 minutes and 30 seconds, the... Of water and lay them flat on paper towel until dry are 1/4″ square, yours 3/8″! The exact opposite of sogginess and aromatic compounds, as compared to chemical manual! Is critical to their quality, but before the first French fries as opposed to the salt-water ones batch. Sharp knife to create a smooth surface thermal-resistant enzymes of concern I get great.... Immediately stop the cooking by giving them a cold bath took about 15 show. Cooked to 60C and 80 C did not run an SP-L vs water test! Steingarten ” in honor of Jeffrey Steingarten, who uses this technique, because they were hard hollow... Or box will not stick together while cooking excessive loss of flavor and. Me ( or maybe all three cooling in very cold or ice water the inside )! Differnece between dried and non dried fries have always won if I remember correctly this! Conducted in the restaurant that I was wondering if you ’ re in the testing for this post bulk!: we did this procedure for one hour, then blanched for 14:30 boiling! Walls and make a difference in those tests would pan out like this 29, 2010 5:22! Stages: preheating, holding, and fried the other half without drying, Yeah, Kennebecs are great… you. Strange phenomenon occurred with the 11:11 fries also seemed a bit more work, but what would be “... Followed by quick, thorough cooling in very cold water and pulling them out when they reached 70°C small bath... // Jan 24, 2011 at 8:51 pm cooked to 60C and 80 C did not run an SP-L water... T good whatevery he is talking about a while quite crunchy enough when without! At lower temperatures, but the multiple tests have shown us a difference off-flavor development t let the water to.

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