Sanded with 000 steel wool or 220 or 320. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user. I saw scratches after I sanded, but thought the 2nd coat would take care of them. In Louisiana, we are almost ALWAYS over 50% humidity. Over the weekend I applied the final coat of polyurethane to a small. If it works…I can document it and be happy about a learned lesson.If it doesn’t work…I’m going to coat the entire thing in resin and have a decent looking table for the patio! Preparing liquid. Dear Lacey: I assume that you have a polyurethane floor, so I will base my answer on that. Hi! It was there I fell in love with the beauty of the grain of the wood, either hidden beneath an old dark finish or highlighted with a new coat of stain. I’ll reuse these sheets several times, then toss them. Apply a very light coat of polyurethane to the sanded area with a brush. This post is awesome. The process is straightforward: sand the area, clean it with a solvent afterwards (denatured alcohol), apply polyurethane, let dry. If you have to break or peal off a layer of dried finish inside your can, it’s beyond its prime. Minwax® helps you select the ideal stain color for your wood project. And during that time, learned that cutting the poly with mineral spirits would give me more of the look I desired. I, like an idiot, didn’t mix my poly before I put down the final coat and it resulted in an uneven sheen with 1/2 the floor looking like semi-gloss and half looking like satin. Sand off the high areas or try to go full strength in the low area. It seems completely counterintuitive, but to make a finish Having another close look at it, I think the difference is noticeable right now because a combination of both thicker layer and smoother surface (more wood grain imperfections are smoothed over) cause the refraction of light to make the wood in that area look richer and slightly more dark. In case, the coat is thick then sand the area and reapply the finish, and in case of a thin coat, then apply the coats until the surface is even. Some places it’s really shiny and others, its very dull. I am hoping to tackle re-finishing these benches this Spring when the weather is right! Once the stain has set, you can seal the floor to protect the finish. These tips are super helpful! It took 36 hours for parts of the floor to dry to the touch. This is really helpful info Bruce! Instead, just stir the product gently but thoroughly before each use. In the few staining projects we’ve done, I’ve done a few of the wrong moves and you’re right it comes out a little funky. I am a rookie when it comes to staining and finishing, my first stain project I used MinWax on though! The wood is stained. When it all looks close to the same, I would then put a couple thin coats over the whole thing to even it out and blend it all together.Do you have any pictures? You can then spread it out on the floor in the affected areas. Once the stain has set, you can seal the floor to protect the finish. This way, you will be able to add more stain, if needed. Eyes, ears, fingers, and... Are you looking for or do you have tips to share regarding the workshop? Applying polyurethane in even coats is a crucial, though not always simple task. I’m visiting from SNAP! Archive View Return to standard view. Streaks and just – YUCK! Anytime I have let my stain harden on top of the wood, it turned sticky and uneven, and rubbed off easily. How To Fix Uneven Polyurethane Finish On Floor Amazing Woodworking Projects 16 Oct 2020 (⭐️ Watch Anywwere) | How To Fix Uneven Polyurethane Finish On Floor Complete Instructions From Start To Finish.how to How To Fix Uneven Polyurethane Finish On Floor for 6 X 4ft Wooden Shed Plans Skip to main content. The directions stated to coat the floor with a water based polyurethane...no buffing or sanding required. Try to blend the edges of uneven … All stains and finishes depend on evaporation to dry, but when the temperature is below 65 degrees or above 90 degrees, or the humidity level is above 50%, then the evaporation process is either too slow or too fast, causing your finish to either not dry or dry too quickly, turning white — like my deck! Whether you are installing a new hardwood floor, refinishing an old one, or just keeping your existing floor looking as good as new, Minwax® has a full range of products to make and keep your floors beautiful. Sanding between coats only requires a very light touch and minimal pressure, so I suspect you may have sanded too deeply. Thank you for such great tips! I just went down to give it a light sanding and if I went gently over the transition from thicker poly to the thinned poly, you could see the brush strokes from when I layed down the poly pretty clearly. Additionally, once the protective finish has been broken by a scratch, the wood underneath can be irreparably damaged by moisture or deepening of the scratch in the wood. We decided to make the matching benches a couple of months later when it was a bit warmer. The solution: wipe off any stain the wood does not absorb. Does anyone know how to fix this? The best method is have the floor prepared for recoating as described above, and then have a very thin coat of polyurethane applied to minimize finish build up. In fact, for some interior floors, it's just a matter of pouring leveling compound out and letting it find its own level. Natural and synthetic bristle brushes specifically designed for use with Minwax® wood finishing products. I used minwax quick drying polyurethane to topcoat a dining room table. At best our house is around 60-65% humidity. Both water- and oil-based polyurethane are varnishes, and they dry to a naturally glossy finish. Then a single coat of oil- or water-based polyurethane or another finish is applied. In general, water is an enemy to wood floors. Polyurethane will not make a wood floor any harder than it already is! But lets start from the beginning. Every subsequent coat will enhance the difference, the finer the finish the more obvious the boo boo becomes. Shaking a can of polyurethane will introduce numerous bubbles into the product that will show up in your final finish. Lightly sand the piece that you are working with--doing so after the first coat has cured, will offer a better second finish. It works better than many traditional coating liquids such as shellac or lacquer. The solution: wipe off any stain the wood does not absorb. Polyurethane is an excellent choice for a protective finish on many projects. I choose to make it. This post is really helpful! I'm new here, please be nice reference: whrl.pl/RdC4wD. That being said, allow me to share some of my “expertise” to help you avoid what I didn’t. From furniture to floors, trust Minwax® products that beautify and protect wood. In that case, if you have a colored stain and then poly over that, I might go over the thinner areas with a couple more coats to build it up. These particles can get caught under the finish and ruin it.Apply the polyurethane finish lightly to the brush, making sure to wipe off any extra.